There are icons, and then there are icons. Anne Boleyn was executed nearly five hundred years ago, and still she resonates: The ingenue with a will of iron. The seductress who wouldn't put out. The woman for whom a king invented a new religion so he could marry her, and then was put to death when she couldn't bear him a son. Virtually every contradictory possibility of female experience is implicated in Anne Boleyn, and so it's no wonder that her story continues to inspire new interpretations—witness Hilary Mantel's Booker Prize-winning novels, Bring Up the Bodies
and Wolf Hall
, or, to get to the point, Simone Rocha
's new collection. The Rocha girl this season was queen of a rather punk court, her wardrobe a blur of gems and fur and flounces. One of Rocha's key innovations was to embed her embellishments into the clothes, a technique with an Elizabethan flavor; another was her way of flouncing the sleeves of coats and tops, an effect with a lot of drama. It even gave a charge to the simplest looks, like an off-the-shoulder black top worn with trim black trousers. Where this show really hit its stride, though, was in the looks in tartan and the pink or red check Rocha developed by brushing wool over tulle. A girl wearing Rocha's cherry red check dress with a full skirt and bejeweled neckline really could be a modern-day Anne—a gamine made of very stern stuff, indeed.