February 07, 2014 New York
The rags to riches collection that appeared on the Suno runway was intended to echo that journey. At the start, fabrics were stiff and coarse, edges were left raw, and glorified shoelaces cinched necklines and seams. Slowly, the light was let in, with gold leaf on the shoulders of a fitted ribbed sweater or tracing the outside of a cardigan's sleeves. "Suno basics," Beatty called them. Multicolored stitched embroideries decorated the hem of a popover top and provided a template for the graphic stripes on a duchesse satin shift (one of the highlights of the show), as well as on fine knit dresses. By the end, Suno's gypsy girl was a techno raver, sporting a glitter jacquard dress with a built-in hoodie. Yes, the canvas-backed wools at the beginning will need to be adjusted before they hit the sales floors, but by and large Beatty and Osterweis managed the neat trick of making the down-to-earth pieces as desirable as the sparkly prizes at the end. Chalk that up to a savvy eye for proportion and the designers' trademark knack for mixing prints.