The new Sharon Wauchob
collection had an unlikely starting point. As Wauchob explained today after her show, she was looking at military insignia—and then, in her words, she "went on a journey with that." Indeed! Anyone looking for military rigor here would come away rather disappointed—albeit, with the consolation of Wauchob's fairly extraordinary embroidered coats, which were cut sharp and fastidious in their embellishment. But the rest of the offer seemed, in a very conscious way, to be about the ersatz. Perhaps the key looks of the show were the collaged dresses that combined various silks and laces and leather thinned to a satin-like weight. Some of those dresses were quite compelling, with a certain louche sex appeal, but overall the results were mixed. More than a few came off a bit slatternly, to be frank, and messy. Meanwhile, aside from the embroidered coats, the plain standouts here were the trim dresses in a thin printed jacquard that Wauchob had pleated into a kind of plissé, and the cocoon-ish curly and longhair wool furs. If Wauchob decided to start her own army, those are definitely the looks the generals should wear.