February 11, 2014 New York
Burch has always dreamed big, not just business-wise but also with collections that tell stories that are surprisingly cinematic. There were a few pieces here that echoed the articulation of her father's suits of armor—a skirt composed of scales of leather was the most obvious example—but the medieval mood was expressed more in a bejeweled sheath, or in the jacquards that duplicated illustrated manuscripts. The notion of a father collecting armor is so splendidly baronial that you were happy to see Burch distill it into an outfit as accessible and desirable as the silver sweater over a knife-pleated silver lamé skirt that Sam Rollinson sported. The thigh-high woollen stockings and gillies deserve a mention too. And, in the last outfit, a gilded gown that evoked John Everett Millais' Pre-Raphaelite masterpiece Ophelia, Burch made a peculiar but beautiful peace with her family legacy.