February 09, 2014 New York
When Panichgul wasn't busy layering, he was synthesizing surprising elements. A dress that looked like two pieces was actually just one, yet still managed to convey the appealing ease of a sweater and skirt. And that wasn't the only trick of the eye. Panichgul ruched chiffon so it looked like fleece, then inset a panel of the stuff in an actual shearling jacket. Color, usually one of Panichgul's strengths, went missing at his last show, but it came roaring back gorgeously today. Fuchsia, cobalt, and aviator orange mingled with camel, navy, and black. A puffer coat embroidered with Technicolor blooms might not fly in the harsh conditions of Patagonia, but it would be a beacon on the streets of New York at this time next year.