This was the season Emma Fletcher said, "To hell with it!" After two years at the helm of Tocca, Fletcher decided it was time to let it rip and give that demure Tocca girl a chance to go (relatively) wild. Bold floral and leaf prints. Fur clutches. Sheer blouses and bra tops. A recurring theme here, which expressed the psychology of this collection well, was of fabric collaged together in a way that felt improvisational; the technique made for some strong pieces, like a bias-cut dress in tonal blanks and red burnout velvet, or a blouse half lace, half Marimekko-esque floral. But the standout looks here made a more straightforward impact—the sexy velvet suits, or the silver lamé slipdress topped oh-so-insouciantly with a nubby cream-and-yellow cardigan. That girl gets the whole "to hell with it" thing. So, too, the one wandering around town in a bra and tap short with a timelessly fantastic navy shearling coat. Very simple garment, that, but well executed and evincing a muscularity not normally associated with Tocca. Here's hoping Fletcher continues to pursue that dimension of the brand.