This was the season Emma Fletcher said, "To hell with it!" After two years at the helm of Tocca
, Fletcher decided it was time to let it rip and give that demure Tocca girl a chance to go (relatively) wild. Bold floral and leaf prints. Fur clutches. Sheer blouses and bra tops. A recurring theme here, which expressed the psychology of this collection well, was of fabric collaged together in a way that felt improvisational; the technique made for some strong pieces, like a bias-cut dress in tonal blanks and red burnout velvet, or a blouse half lace, half Marimekko-esque floral. But the standout looks here made a more straightforward impact—the sexy velvet suits, or the silver lamé slipdress topped oh-so-insouciantly with a nubby cream-and-yellow cardigan. That
girl gets the whole "to hell with it" thing. So, too, the one wandering around town in a bra and tap short with a timelessly fantastic navy shearling coat. Very simple garment, that, but well executed and evincing a muscularity not normally associated with Tocca. Here's hoping Fletcher continues to pursue that dimension of the brand.