February 21, 2014 Milan
There was outerwear, of course: a crinkly black patent peacoat with a stand-up collar lined in white mink; a loosely cut trench in lavender bonded leather; a creamy cape coat with a thin, almost papery quality. Each striking in its own way. Papery or not, leather is more recalcitrant than silk or even cotton. Of the two shirtdresses the designer whipped together from the stuff, the one with the laser-cutting around the neckline was the more successful. The laser tracery gave it a breezy airiness that the other one, with exterior pockets and "futuristic" ruffles around the shoulders, could have used more of.
Rounding out the collection and giving it some depth were two graphic motifs: a windowpane check and a lozenge pattern Facchinetti lifted from carpets, which was most impressive supersized on a leather poncho, the pattern inlaid like mosaic.