Jean-Luc Godard's Bande à Part
and François Truffaut's Jules et Jim
were touchstones for Gaia Trussardi's new Fall collection. The restless, rebellious spirits of Anna Karina and Jeanne Moreau's characters seeped into her best clothes, which took their proportions and their patterns from menswear. A shearling bomber big enough to curl up and fall asleep in had a casual confidence, and Gaia had an easy way with a Prince of Wales check blazer and tweed pants. A pair of leather dresses, on the other hand, could have used some finessing, and why so many miniskirts? The Trussardi
family business is one of Italy's ultimate heritage houses, with a century-plus history of leather goods artisanship. This collection didn't measure up to that past in a convincingly rich way. Figuring out how to amp up the luxury factor will be the first of Gaia's challenges for the future.