is nothing if not reliable. Even in her weaker collections, there are always at least a handful of pieces that women will be lusting over come shopping time. This season the excitement centered on outerwear—leopard-print wool trenches and anoraks, cool see-through bombers, a snow-white parka with an oversize hood. Elsewhere, the show faltered. That's not to say there weren't cool garments here; the sequined and fish-scale-textured skirts had a nice pop, for example. But the little sundresses didn't appear to have earned their place on a Paris runway, not to mention the fact that they looked very, very seasonally inappropriate. Whereas the true standout item, ironically, should have seemed all wrong: pearl-studded winter sandals, low-slung and chunky like Birkenstocks. Those will make it onto more than a few wish lists.