If you're looking at the photos of Véronique Leroy's Fall collection and thinking the knitwear looks strong, you would be wrong on one count. The designer explained postshow that many of the pieces resembling knits were actually elaborated fabrics—notably, heathery jacquard and sinuously dappled tweed. This technical bait and switch gave Leroy an upper hand, subtly conveying that she's been at this gig for long enough to crave innovation as much as we do. For some, her progress may be too gradual to notice. But between Pre-Fall and now, she has shifted toward more volume and density via boxier jackets and flounced shirting, while counterbalancing the weight with a comparable amount of sheer. The repetition of a trapezoidal pattern—Leroy's take on tire treads—defined this collection, especially the way it was deftly embroidered onto a spongy perforated gabardine base.

Only when Leroy layered a trio of fabrications did her intellectualizing get the better of her. She narrowly avoided this trap again with the sculptural silver-plated metal belts; you can't tell they gaped from the body. But someone figured out that the finger width of space offered a clever way to guard (or show off) the color-matched Agnelle gloves. And if a glove gimmick helps to generate more visibility for this skilled designer, then so be it.