Vivienne Westwood Red Label
February 16, 2014 London
The question of legacy seems an appropriate one to raise today. This was a relatively restrained show, and it seemed to be fueled by quite a bit of nostalgia; the initial passage of broad-shouldered coats and suits, in particular, had the flavor of postwar looks Westwood probably recalls from her childhood. Elsewhere, the hits of leather and signature Westwood styles like the sculpted cocktail dress had a retrospective quality as well. Westwood isn't advancing her aesthetic at this point, she's codifying it. And in the meantime, the show included an appearance on the catwalk by the Dame's granddaughter, and concluded with the two of them taking the final bow together.