For Fall, Wayne Lee stayed on a steady track. She brought back some of the best silhouettes of recent seasons—including the miniskirt-over-narrow-trouser combo, this time in gray suiting—but she also added new textures and flourishes that gave them a legitimate update. A long V-front coat in brushed camel offered the cozy element everyone seems to be looking for this season, while a Swarovski peace sign on a sweatshirt hovered over the ironic/crude line Lee is excellent at walking.

"I did of lot of cocktail dresses this season," Lee said while going through the looks in her Garment District studio, sounding a bit surprised with herself. One style, a black number with a plunging V and an attached crystal necklace, offered just enough sex appeal. Those same tiny crystals—the color Lee used is called Aurora Borealis; it has an iridescent tinge—accented a gray wool top in a line across the bust.

A new look for Wayne was boot-cut trousers, which Lee did in that same gray suiting fabric. Like most of what she showed, these had an urgent, must-buy-now feel. She's definitely good at making straightforward pieces particularly desirable.