"Last season was an aha moment for me," said Wes Gordon while sifting through looks at his Financial District studio just days before his Fall show. "I feel like my woman is becoming really clear."

Gordon launched his collection four years ago right out of school, and it has taken him a while to find his footing. At first, his lady was a lady—the kind of icy blond who only orders clothes via trunk show. Yet as Gordon has learned to tap into his own youth, she's loosened up a bit: still upper-crust, but living in Tribeca.

For Fall, Gordon's muse was wearing pieces that played quite a bit with texture, the season's big idea. A silk georgette and tulle color-blocked sheath was paired with a chunky, cropped cashmere cardigan, and an ice-blue wool bomber with a fox collar popped against a pencil skirt. The knits, especially the cashmere sweater in zigzag stripes of ice blue and brown, looked so right against lightweight silk and organza skirts.

A pair of plaid trousers, worn with a banded sleeveless shell, was too ordinary for a runway. But Gordon's verging-on-signature slipdresses—in Chantilly lace or silk—had an irresistible quality. He's in a good place, and undoubtedly gaining confidence in his abilities.