hit his stride today. His latest collection had the virtue of simplicity—at least on the surface. This was a low-concept show, subdued in tone, and full of seemingly straightforward looks that told in the details. Collage was a big element here, whether a graphic collaged print or a dress pieced together from irregular cuts of leather. Texture was an emphasis as well, with cozy materials like a gray check mohair or a nubby bouclé knit trading off with slicker fabrications; a semi-sheer striped organza in black had a particularly futuristic tone. But Azrouël's best efforts this season found him doing unexpected things with pleats and sleeves—making a skirt with varying widths of pleats in the first instance, a subtle but winning touch, or slashing the insides of sleeves open so they lay capelike about the shoulders. Azrouël was less successful with his ornamentation; notably, the military pockets on a lot of looks just seemed extraneous. Whereas the standout item here was as spare as could be: A curved gray coat with navy trim elevated the Azrouël aesthetic to a new level and bespoke a real design confidence.