For a while now, Andre Walker has been a name known only to the fashion cognoscenti. Teenage fashion prodigy, consultant to Marc Jacobs and Kim Jones, publisher of the cult magazine-cum-art object Tiwimuta
. Sometimes at a fashion show you would hear someone say, "Oh, Andre Walker was doing that back in the early nineties." And that was undoubtedly true. Now Walker is getting a wider audience, albeit still a niche one, with his And Re Walker
collection, exclusive to Dover Street Market. As Walker explained at an appointment today, the line came out of an open-ended conversation he had with Adrian Joffe about what he might like to do for the new New York store, and the result is the small group of looks now in stock. Some pieces, like a sculpted bouclé dress that weighs thirty pounds, are essentially identical to pieces from Walker's archive; others, like the T-shirts and tanks with "handles" that operate as belt loops, are new iterations of ideas that Walker says he was playing with back in his teens. And yet other pieces, like the cropped trousers made from vintage silks, are entirely new. Much of the specialness of these clothes is private, or at any rate a close-up thing—to wit, the weighty white button-down with open notches and hidden pockets. Elsewhere, though, the gestures are more broad: One of the archival looks Walker remade at Joffe's instigation was a bouclé scarf that buttons around the calves to become a sort of pant. Apparently, the shop has already sold a couple of those.