There's no question that Shayne Oliver uses the Hood by Air
runway to make statements—about gender, about power, about class, about beauty. And more. But it's also true that he's trying to sell clothes. Talking to Oliver, one doesn't get the impression that commerce is uppermost in his mind. But among the many interesting things about today's Hood by Air show was that sound of ka-ching
you could just make out amid the bombastic soundtrack. Oversize football jerseys with a magnified bruise print? Ka-ching
. Grommeted suede and leather bombers? Ka-ching
. HBA zip-embellished jeans? Ka-ching, ka-ching, ka-ching
. The denim in particular seems like it will have a very short trajectory from cult must-have to mainstream phenomenon. Oliver seems to get the appeal: In a perfect mash-up of art and commerce, he concluded the show with an extraordinary performance, as about a dozen muscular young men—all in Hood by Air denim—took to the runway for a vogueing extravaganza (although this was such an athletic, aggressive style of vogueing, it probably deserves another name). The dancing was unforgettable. So were the jeans.