was recently named a member of the CFDA's third Fashion Incubator class. The news has not only added to Ermilio's momentum, but also given her the opportunity to re-examine her brand from a business standpoint. Known for occasion-wear that's ultrafeminine yet minimal, the designer's new Fall collection indicated that she's no one-trick pony. A prime example of her growth this season was an orange-red parka cut from a waxed cotton sourced from a company that originally produced military tents during World War I. The sporty standout suggested that Ermilio is developing her range, as did additional separates like slim trousers, fancy T-shirts, and color-blocked topcoats that had mod sixties appeal. "I've been thinking more about a woman's wardrobe in the round," she said at a studio preview. Elsewhere, Ermilio continued to refine her signature cocktail attire with clean sheaths and strapless dresses that came in either candy-stripe satin or floral guipure lace. Another highlight was a beautiful ivory column gown with a low, scooped back and flouncy train. It was simultaneously pared down and dramatic, and would look terrific with the aforementioned parka.