Graeme Black has replaced Alessandro Dell'Acqua as the creative director of Les Copains. The appointment was announced ten days ago. Presumably Black was at work on the Fall collection he presented today in Milan before that. However much time he had, it was long enough for him to absorb the 60-year-old Italian house’s fine knitwear heritage. There were all manner of sweaters on the runway, from fuzzy striped mohairs and butterfly intarsia dresses to an openwork chenille cardigan tied with a silk ribbon and a shaggy coat in a pattern that looked like a Moroccan rug. A reindeer even popped up on a pullover.

As a statement about the company’s range, it sort of worked, even if it was conventional stuff. Beyond the knits, Black was unfocused. He showed a few sculptural skirts and, at the other end of the spectrum, some unstructured track-pant-jodhpur hybrids. A passage of separates in flower-printed laminated knits was also in the mix. In order for Les Copains to expand as its owners want, Black will need to refine his point of view for the brand.