Every cool girl who lived in New York during the nineties remembers X-Girl. The fashion line cofounded by Kim Gordon quickly earned a cult following for its shrunken tees, miniskirts, skater pants, and celebrity supporters such as Sofia Coppola and Chloë Sevigny. As a streetwise Manhattan native, X-Girl left a lasting impression on Nomia's Yara Flinn, and she cited the brand as a reference point for her new Fall collection. At a showroom preview, the designer also reminisced over days spent leafing through Delia's catalogs and thrifting at Canal Jeans. Flinn channeled her nostalgia in a modern way. She paired Lurex-flecked mock turtleneck dresses with clean parka coats that looked pretty in pastel-colored taffeta, for example, and teamed cropped sweaters with crepe maxi skirts boasting killer high slits. This season, Flinn was a bit more playful in terms of introducing color and experimenting with specialty fabrications. She latched on to still-happening fringe, which accented several pieces including a boxy T-shirt dress and split-seam tunics. Other highlights included a bomber jacket that came in plush, Astrakhan-effect velvet, and patch-pocket jumpsuits that gave off a utilitarian vibe. Compared with recent outings, there was less emphasis on streetwear and more emphasis on sophistication, which felt like a definite step forward for Nomia.