Rosie Assoulin's buzzed-about NYFW debut placed her at the top of industry watch lists, and her striking Fall collection confirmed that the hype is real. This season, the up-and-coming designer continued to articulate her unique, modern take on occasion-wear, characterized by sculptural volumes and sophisticated separates that segue from day to evening. "The overall look is similar to Spring," said Assoulin at her presentation, "but we're pushing it forward and making the shapes a bit more graphic." Indeed, the latest lineup suggested that she is building a repertoire of signature silhouettes. A red velvet crop top with cutout shoulders and billowing sleeves, for example, resembled an ethereal white style from Spring, which was recently worn by Lily Aldridge at an amfAR event—that night, the supermodel was unquestionably the best dressed on the red carpet.

While Assoulin's creations exude pure drama, they also convey a certain ease. The designer aims to make dressing up in a ball gown feel like wearing sweats, and vice versa. She underscored this notion of elegant insouciance by pairing many of the looks here with casual Superga sneakers (courtesy of supportive pal Leandra Medine, who collaborates with the Italian footwear brand). Meanwhile, a luxe cashmere knit set was elevated with the addition of a sweeping maroon sash. Assoulin also introduced a menswear influence into the mix with classic Prince of Wales checks, which appeared on a slim column skirt as well as a floor-scraping, tailored topcoat. Other standouts illustrated the designer's calculated craftsmanship. The vibrant rainbow of streamers draped over a strapless black number, for instance, were created with forty hand-stitched godets. And the statement-making finale gown was pieced together from more than two hundred strips of multicolored velvet and heavy silk to achieve its playful, candy-stripe effect. "Technically speaking, it's super-exciting to do stuff like this. It's like she's wearing a canvas," said Assoulin, who proved her potential with this strong outing.