Robert Cary-Williams

LONDON, September 21, 1999
By Plum Sykes
Imagine an off-blue, tailored leather pantsuit. Then imagine its collars held together with a knifelike slice of mirrored glass, and you can see why Robert Cary-Williams' third runway show held everyone's attention. A young designer who has previously shown on runways banging with explosions, Cary-Williams stayed true to his inspirations—molded leather that he bakes in an oven and deconstructed tailoring. Jackets were crafted in butter-colored or cloud gray leather with detailed topstitching and seaming, while dresses were trimmed with leather or zips. Trousers were beautifully deconstructed to fall away into skirts and many jackets were completely backless. If Cary-Williams couldn't resist a few art school moments, like a dress made entirely of mirrors, the star piece—an organza dress decorated with zips that unraveled down Kate Moss' bared back—proved this designer has a unique vision that should be watched.

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