Josephus Thimister's work is striking for its simplicity. Few designers today have the talent—or the desire—to reconfigure traditional notions of acceptable dressing, mix rich materials with pedestrian ones to create hard, striking pieces, and then use them to propose an aesthetic that's undeniably beautiful. Thimister's austere collection featured simple white trenches, dresses and skirts, many with burnt hems; there were rich knit sweaters in brown and aqua, crinkly leather ensembles and shiny black suits. But perhaps most important of all, there was no unnecessary ornamentation—just well-constructed, defiantly modern clothes based on strong creative power. And one good idea is worth more than a thousand misplaced paillettes.