There were two sides to Anna Sui's collection: a stark, punk-influenced series of slashed black jersey tops, dresses and skirts with crisscross straps, metal studs and butch-belle belts, and an array of embroidered and embellished printed chiffon and crepe ensembles. Sui would've done well to stick with the former—the moment girly prints, fringed bags and raffia anything came along, the powerful image fell apart.

Not surprisingly, the three most directional looks were worn by Belgian model Hannelore, who is fast emerging as a poster face for the new haute-punk and the more street-savvy reinterpretations of the '80s. She wore a simple white silk cowl-neck dress that looked perfectly right, a purple mesh dolman dress, and a one-shouldered black jersey number that would've worked equally well at CBGB in 1985 or at a cocktail reception in the downtown Guggenheim right now.