There was not a tartan in sight at Burberry, the once-stuffy label that Roberto Menichetti has successfully revitalized over the past few seasons. The omission was a smart move, considering how much exposure the signature plaid has recently received, especially after Miguel Adrover and Russell Sage borrowed it last season for their own experiments.

Menichetti turned instead to cornflower blue, all shades of beige and muted greens. Hand-tailored leather jackets were tucked into paneled skirts with a double waistband; silk skirts and shirts looked clean and fresh without a button in sight. But some trousers, featuring a sporty stripe down the side, and a couple of casual tops bearing a "BP" logo (Burberry Prorsum, not British Petroleum) seemed out of place, as did the odd obi belts that cinched many looks.

In general the clothes were well-tailored and constructed, but the collection as a whole was somewhat confusing. When you consider that it was done by an Italian designer working with Eastern references for a traditional English house, it's not hard to imagine why.