Callaghan
NEW YORK, September 22, 2000
By Armand Limnander
Callaghan's show was the first ever in New York for the 35-year-old fashion house, and also served as the Stateside debut for its unofficial designer, Nicolas Ghesquière, of Balenciaga fame.In his collection for Callaghan, Ghesquière wowed the audience with an innovative, brilliantly worked collection of gathered, tied, pleated and frayed silk dresses. The look was classical Greece by way of Princess Leia, with plenty of Bianca Jagger attitude thrown in for good measure. The references may have come from the past, but there was nothing retro about the collection.
Ghesquiè;re's main talent lies in his obsession with details and the precision with which he cuts every garment, creating perfect proportions. Dresses shimmied on the body with every turn; uneven, frayed hems on skirts looked violently chic and absolutely of the moment. No less impressive were a few patchwork suede looks—distressed, tattered and regal.
As if to underscore the hipper-than-thou nature of the clothes, Ghesquière not only turned to the season's requisite thick leather belts, but also used thin straps of colorful paillette cords. They were the perfect complement to the beaded lightning bolts that adorned several looks, a tongue-in-cheek embellishment that looked surprisingly right in this context.
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Spring 2001 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Arkadius As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Callaghan Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Cerruti Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cynthia Rowley -
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D&G Daryl K Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan -
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Elspeth Gibson Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Eric Bergère -
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Fendi -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Halston Helmut Lang -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano -
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Kenzo -
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Lanvin Lawrence Steele Lizzy Disney Loewe Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Marc Jacobs Marjan Pejoski Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Pamela Dennis Prada -
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Ralph Lauren Randolph Duke Richard Tyler Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sally Penn Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki -
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Tristan Webber Tuleh -
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Ungaro Couture -
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Valentino Vera Wang Versace Versus Victor Alfaro Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent
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