Looking for a dainty, girly, embroidered little spring frock for that garden party with the in-laws next May? Forget about it: You won't come even close to finding something like that at Costume National.

Designer Ennio Capasa went for his usual lean, mean and sleek silhouette. Masculine tuxedos were the inspiration for sexy pantsuits with wide cummerbunds, many with the jacket tucked inside the pants, some with glittering barely-there pinstripes. The black-and-white procession of bustiers, blazers and pegged trousers was only momentarily interrupted by several chocolate- brown suedes and leathers, as well as some violet-blue satins.

The look at Costume National was certainly consistent, but at some point everything tended to blur together; one would've liked to see more ideas at play.