Sex is in the air for Spring 2001, and Tom Ford has always known how to work the sleek, lean look better than anyone else. But for all the raciness of his collection, it seems that this time around Gucci is undergoing somewhat of an identity crisis.

Black-and-white dominatrix-inspired looks opened the show, featuring corseted waists, rigid bustiers, and stiletto-heel shoe-boots. Massive purple satin suits alternated with safari jackets and extra-wide cargo pants; a wet T-shirt contest of manipulated, skimpy tank tops gave way to military-inspired jackets and trousers. There was also an immense dolman top, a short cape and a bat-sleeved, rubberized trenchcoat.

With fashion's decade-jumping game moving at breakneck speed, Alaïa, Saint Laurent, Mugler, Gaultier and even Dolce & Gabbana are all viable references. But are we prepared for a deflated pouf skirt with a huge cargo pocket? Cross-your-heart brassiere tops? What worked best at Gucci were the clothes that didn't make an effort, like the straight satin trousers, ribbed tops and short, pleated dresses.