There was great expectation surrounding the Jil Sander show, considering that it was the first Sander collection since the German designer parted ways with the Prada Group, which owns the label.

The creative team who took over the brand clearly sought to adhere to Sander's essential dictums of clean shapes and simple design. The silhouette was definitely Sander—belted trenches, essential white shirts and unfettered shirtdresses looked perfectly proper, as did the classic light turtlenecks, now with a more ample armhole, and wearable pantsuits. Less accomplished were the high-waist trousers and skirts, which seemed cumbersome at times, especially with jackets tucked inside.

The collection's overcast, gray color scheme did not help matters. What was missing most was Sander's inimitable lightness of touch, which simply cannot be duplicated, no matter how vast the archives she left behind may be.