Skulls, bats and infernal flames on Jean Paul Gaultier's invitation hinted at what was to come at his show: hordes of rough and tough Hell's Angels, biker chicks and Mad Max warriors. The stage was set with a dirt field in lieu of a runway and gigantic speakers blaring hard rock as a procession of gum-chewing, beer-guzzling babes in combat boots, fringed tops and airbrushed, slashed dresses appeared. Pieces of leather motorcycle jackets and pants—an arm here, half a trouser there—were tied over bunched and gathered skirts. The look was relentlessly hard—so much that at times the styling overpowered the clothes. Nonetheless, under all the madness there were plenty of wearable clothes, like a gorgeous pleated lavender skirt, colorfully printed shirts, leather miniskirts and layered tanks.

Gaultier's collection delivered two key trends for spring: short, playful yet hard-edged dresses and skirts, and aggressive biker-inspired leathers.