Gilles Rosier's collection for Kenzo was based on a play between lightness and geometry. Fluid chiffon dresses were dip-dyed and layered, chiffon ones smocked and ruffled, while harder chocolate leather skirts were embellished with graphic circular orange insets. Rosier also delivered several unpretentious, girly white dresses, trousers and wrap tops that will be perfect for a day at the beach: Throw them over one of his siren-inspired bathing suits.

Rosier is still on his way to modernizing Kenzo's considerable legacy of mixing and matching diverse cultural references. There were plenty of good pieces in the collection, but many of them got lost in a sea of repetition. The show would've gained strength if it had been edited down to the essential looks.