Ex-British Vogue writer Luella Bartley has become the darling of London's new generation of "It" girls, so it's no surprise she snapped up models Kate Moss, Malgosia, and Frankie and Missy Rayder for her runway ode to the '80s.

Backed by an upbeat Go-Go's soundtrack, Luella offered graffiti-printed denim suits, skirts and bathing suits; and leather sleeveless tops and tube dresses trimmed with fluorescent stretch knit bands. There were also strong-shouldered motorcycle jackets, glittering pantsuits and a white tuxedo with white lapels. A seemingly innocent print revealed itself to be, upon closer inspection, a skull with the number "87" inscribed on its bony forehead. Liquid Sky-inspired streaks of neon over the eyes finished off the look.

It's clear that the '80s are a major influence this season, and Luella certainly capitalized on the trend. But, while her show was poppy, well-styled and undoubtedly fun, it was also too literal. Claude Montana, an obvious source of inspiration, should have been Luella's guest of honor.