Never mind that Marc Jacobs designs four full collections a year in addition to his recently launched secondary line. With Louis Vuitton, he proved once again that he has plenty of talent to spare, and no signs of slowing down. Normally, one can be happy if a designer proposes one solid trend per season. But that would never satisfy Jacobs; instead, he whipped up and reworked several of the season's recurring motifs in completely novel ways. Uniforms, a clear influence on the Spring collections, were referenced through khaki and olive-green military blousons with epaulettes, snap-side skirts, policeman hats, an "SS Vuitton" naval cap and a genial camouflage rose print. Pining for fluorescent colors rather that six months in the army? Jacobs took the day-glo trend from street to chic with impeccable hot pink and neon green V-neck sweaters. Fifties met '80s punk with pleated, low-slung skirts with folded waistbands and clear plastic bands to pinch the silhouette.

Accessories? Hardly two pairs of shoes were the same: There were fluoro pumps, casual flats and sexy kitten heels to choose from. And just when you thought you couldn't stand another logo, Jacobs found the perfect compromise between art and commerce: Stephen Sprouse graffiti-painted "Louis Vuitton" on the house's brand-new totes.