The '50s-by-way-of-the-'80s spirit that Miuccia Prada referenced in her signature line also turned up at Miu Miu, here with a young, utilitarian spin.

The collection opened with short skirts that were dwarfed by oversize drop-shoulder jackets cinched at the waist with wide elastic belts; there were large exterior pockets on cropped tops, skirts and jackets. Striped mohair sweaters looked smart with a pleated full skirt to the knee; pointy librarian glasses accentuated the '50s collegiate look. Lighter pieces included a semi-sheer white camisole with spaghetti straps, an Empire-waist gray shift, and several printed and pleated baby-doll dresses.

The accessories also picked up on the themes seen at Prada. Geometric color-block pumps conveyed a girly and playful spirit, while the wide-strapped bags brought to mind the need for urban, no-nonsense essentials.