Oscar de la Renta never strays far from his signature brand of elegance, but this time around his collection felt lighter and breezier than usual. His well-established clientele will certainly go for classic favorites like the playful silk crystal pleated skirts to the knee, worn with preppy navy cashmere sweaters. Or the day dress—a summer essential—which came in a variety of styles including a chartreuse linen shift, plenty of sexy jacquard silk halters and the all-important little black number.

But for many, evening is what de la Renta does best, and they will not be disappointed. Alek Wek wore a sleeveless, white silk embroidered dress that made the audience draw breath; Caroline Ribeiro closed the show with an imposing navy-blue ruche organza gown. One caveat: de la Renta also showed skimpy bandeau tops paired with short ballooned skirts, leaving everyone in the audience wondering, Are we really ready for a full-blown pouf revival?