Roland Mouret's very grown-up, sophisticated and theatrical collection provided an alternative to the many bubblegum-inspired looks that have shown up this season. Marc Almond sang live, cabaret-style, as Mouret's evening ladies filed out of a hall of mirrors wearing masterfully draped, pleated gowns—this is, after all, a designer who is able to create traffic-stopping dresses out of a piece of fabric and a clothespin.

Mouret's collection spoke of the haughty glamour of decades past, but avoided the usual trappings. Instead of madly splashing sequins about, he carefully applied them to tears on flowing dresses and pants. A perfectly plain black one-shoulder silk cape dress relied on nothing more than precision of cut to create a stunning effect; a classic liquid white column came equipped with a large black wrap around the neck held in place by a jeweled pin. While many designers strive desperately to invent eye-catching looks that last barely a season, Mouret continues to refine his personal vision of polished femininity.