Ruffo Research
MILAN, October 3, 2000
By Armand Limnander
Sophia Kokosalaki reworked some of the themes she had explored in London with her signature line, this time around focusing exclusively on leather. Her palette was light and frothy—pale rose, cappuccino, blush tan. But the main strength of the collection lay in the innovative ways in which leather and suede were treated like ordinary fabric. Paneled skirts were clipped asymmetrically at the hem, resembling glued-together strips of Band-Aids; an extraordinary one-shoulder black dress was twisted into a knot and suspended by a single strap of spaghettilike leather cords. Roomy trousers were pleated along the side and cuffed, worn with a light top and held together with a sash belt. Even the shoes made a statement—gathered pumps and mesh ankle boots grounded the looks.Kokosalaki's silhouette clearly referenced the '80s, but the end result was fresh and innovative, thanks especially to the skill with which skins were manipulated.
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Spring 2001 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Arkadius As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Callaghan Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Cerruti Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cynthia Rowley -
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D&G Daryl K Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan -
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Elspeth Gibson Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Eric Bergère -
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Fendi -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Halston Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Kenzo -
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Marc Jacobs Marjan Pejoski Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent
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