Sophia Kokosalaki reworked some of the themes she had explored in London with her signature line, this time around focusing exclusively on leather. Her palette was light and frothy—pale rose, cappuccino, blush tan. But the main strength of the collection lay in the innovative ways in which leather and suede were treated like ordinary fabric. Paneled skirts were clipped asymmetrically at the hem, resembling glued-together strips of Band-Aids; an extraordinary one-shoulder black dress was twisted into a knot and suspended by a single strap of spaghettilike leather cords. Roomy trousers were pleated along the side and cuffed, worn with a light top and held together with a sash belt. Even the shoes made a statement—gathered pumps and mesh ankle boots grounded the looks.

Kokosalaki's silhouette clearly referenced the '80s, but the end result was fresh and innovative, thanks especially to the skill with which skins were manipulated.