After seeing Sophia Kokosalaki's collection today, it was easy to understand why she was appointed to design for Ruffo Research this year. Kokosalaki has quite a way with skins, a highly developed sense of color and the ability to build upon diverse references to create directional fashion.

Color-blocked leather tops in soft pink, forest green and rich brown paired with flouncy, light skirts opened the show. Grecian-inspired gathered shirts and dresses followed, mixed with spine-pleat leather trousers, wide belts and mesh leather overlays. There was nothing kitschy or self-indulgent about the mix—the ruffled sheer tops with streamers and leather cuffs, pegged trousers and slashed-hem skirts all looked perfectly original and in tune with the fashion moment.

Kokosalaki provided some of the most brilliant interpretations of this season's must-have draped dress: There was an elaborate black gown with horizontal and vertical gathering, as well as several liquid copper numbers with ruched sleeves and side seams that were not only highly original but perfectly chic.