COMPLETE COLLECTION

PARIS, January 21, 2002

By Stephen Todd

There was a time when a designer had to create a minimum of 50 outifts, fitted at least three times on his clients, to earn the official title of "haute couturier." Not anymore. Certainly not chez Yvan Mispelaere for Louis Féraud, who this evening attempted a new form of couture by showing just 24 outfits, apparently exploring the concepts of "support/surface" and "container/contained."

How did these theoretical notions materialize on the runway? In the shape of a combined coat-overall in gray silk featuring slung halter pockets. Or a Jetsons-sleeved pajama shirt, billowing at the elbows and paired with a straight skirt in gray worker cotton. Or a bib-fronted dress in aluminum, finished with a quilted satin origami effect.

In case there was any doubt that this was a collection to think about, a song called "Something for Your Mind" provided relentless sonic accompaniment. Whether or not it was something to wear is a different question.