COMPLETE COLLECTION

PARIS, January 20, 2002

By Stephen Todd

For his second couture collection at Givenchy, Welshman Julien Macdonald had obviously taken to heart last season's critique of his "risk-free" approach. This time he left solid ground far behind, envisaging an "angel, descending to earth," complete with pale colors, abstract forms and "proportions straight out of a dream."

How do angels materialize on the catwalk? Apparently, wearing an asymmetric ruched white chiffon smock dress layered over white cotton trousers. Or a black cotton trouser suit with a décolleté back, embroidered with jet beading and black paillettes. Or, like Karolina Kurkova, caught up in an asymmetric tunic with a draped satin sleeve and looped passementeries over hand-painted "watermark" trousers. Phew. While experimentation is a crucial element of couture, some of Macdonald's treatments felt so heavy-handed, it was little surprise his poor creatures were falling to earth. Some fell with quite a thud. Some even wore head bandages as mementos of their rough descent.

While there were some strong, assertive silhouettes on display—especially the embellished and layered jackets—most of Macdonald's collection was as unsuitable for mere mortals as it was for celestial beings.