Femininity with a hard edge is Alessandro Dell'Acqua's trademark. The embroidered translucent dresses that have seemed so fragile on other runways looked tough and defiant here, cinched with wide, tooled belts or woven leather cords. A wispy chiffon slip looked almost threatening when accessorized with a mannish vest, a driving cap and dizzyingly high punched-suede shoe-boots. And crisscrossed lace strips on airy tops brought to mind nothing so much as a sexy gunslinger.

This collection was full of pieces that reinforced Dell'Acqua's signature vision—one-shoulder gladiator dresses, fitted suede jeans and off-kilter ruffle skirts. What it lacked was any indication of what else the designer might be capable of doing.