Ann Demeulemeester has the rare ability to invest her punky, hard-edged clothes with a lovely, lyrical quality.

Slouchy, low-slung trousers and oversize jackets have always been part of the Demeulemeester repertoire, and this season was no exception—done in black and white silk, they looked the epitome of nonchalant chic. Draped dresses, extra-short miniskirts, gathered-neck shirts and wrap shirt-jackets were street-smart rather than girly, cinched carelessly at the hips with multiple-loop belts. Unstructured military jackets, distressed leather coats, and severe ankle boots rounded out the collection.

Demeulemeester deftly tackled this season's layering theme via a series of belts that came with attached half-skirts. Worn over a short dress or skirt, they create a silhouette that is asymmetric, anarchic—and unfailingly cool.