For her fourth season, Alice Roi presented a pilgrim/Amish-themed show that proved her most mature and consistent collection to date.

Trading her popular '80s-inspired bubblegum-girl silhouettes for long, fluid shapes, Roi opened with ankle-length dresses featuring grosgrain detailing at the wrists and waistline; the monastic effect was offset by thoroughly downtown, old-school Reebok boots. The designer stuck with neutral raw shades like pewter and oatmeal for her flowing country skirts and monkey-print frocks, but also ventured into city chic with fitted trousers, knockabout blazers and a couple of short scalloped lace dresses. Less interesting were the puff-sleeved Victorian shirts and flamenco-inspired tiered dresses, of which we saw plenty last season. Here, they felt gimmicky and derivative.

Despite these occasional misfires, Roi's collection confirmed that she is a name to watch closely in the future.