Arkadius
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 17, 2001
By Sarah Mower
Think of Arkadius as the Alexander McQueen of Poland. Fully embracing the more theatrical side of London's Central Saint Martins college, the Slavic designer has, in past shows, "given birth" on the runway and brandished a rubber cast of his own severed head at the audience for a finale.Arkadius' Spring collection, relatively low on dramatics compared to past performances, was based on a Catholic theme, the adoration of the Virgin. Beginning with a shaven-headed, bare-breasted "Mary" festooned with crucifixes and a crown of thorns, the show converted embroidery usually seen on priestly vestments into pants and dresses, while interspersing padded 3-D appliqués of the Madonna and Child and the Sacred Heart onto tops. In between, there were calmer moments where Arkadius worked with lace, georgette ruffles and paisley for party dresses with complicated cuts. Then the show reverted to a religious climax as a model paraded, in gold brocade pants, with her face inserted into an icon.
One poignant sight was the singular back view of a red jacket, with a dove of peace embroidered on the back.
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Spring 2002 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi An American View Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Arkadius -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally BCBG Max Azria Bernhard Willhelm Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Cerruti Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cynthia Rowley -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Halston Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hugo Boss Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Jasper Conran Jean Paul Gaultier Jill Stuart Jil Sander Joe Casely-Hayford John Galliano Julien Macdonald -
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Katayone Adeli -
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Lawrence Steele Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez -
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Olivier Theyskens Oscar de la Renta -
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Philosophy Prada -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Edwards Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse -
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Tomas Maier -
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Ungaro Couture -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent
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