Inspired by the makeover success stories of labels such as Louis Vuitton and Burberry, Harvard-trained business-graduate-turned-designer Scott Fellows is determined to make Bally the next world-class luxury brand.

In these label-obsessed times, a globally recognized name is a prized asset for any fashion house. And for the last few seasons, Bally has made considerable efforts to update its prestigious history, opening revamped flagships and launching a full clothing line. After making a splash with last season's chic woven leathers, Fellows went for graphic, simple basics this time around. A white tailored pantsuit was accented with a diamond-pattern cummerbund waistband; square-ribbon skirts and shifts looked perfectly prim.

Bally's strategy is to create wearable, luxurious pieces that don't slavishly follow trends. While many of Fellows' designs fit that bill, others, like the geometric-inset leather dresses and trousers, fell short of expectations. If the label is to succeed in the competitive luxury-goods arena, the Bally team will have to flex a little more creative muscle.