Just as Burberry's latest ad campaign was startlingly plaid—and logo-free—the once staid English company's Spring show broadened the scope of its style while remaining true to its London roots.

Former Gucci lieutenant Christopher Bailey has distilled the Burberry look into several core elements that offer a grown-up take on London street style. Pants come low-slung, straight and full through the calf, ending in a devil-may-care puddle well below the ankle. Skirts are cut either short around the thigh with punky grommet belts or in haphazard-looking loose drapes. Colors mainly stick to mellow hues of khaki, aubergine, black and navy, with a few zaps of jade and violet.

While crinkled blouses and loudly striped tank tops might seem a little too street for a lady who lunches (and can afford designer clothes), Bailey wisely tops off his grungier pieces with chic khaki trenchcoats and tailored pinstripe jackets. This kind of balancing act is just what the label needs to woo fickle big spenders, not just in London but in L.A. and beyond.