Ennio Capasa's Costume National collection, executed almost entirely in black and white, was thankfully short.

At heart, Capasa is a minimalist who emphasizes form above everything else—he is at his best designing sharp jackets and no-nonsense trousers. Why then, would he choose to cinch most of his looks with unflattering bodybuilder belts-turned-corsets? The effect was jarring and distracting.

Worn without those unfortunate accessories, many of Capasa's clothes will work just fine as sensible everyday uniforms—the roomy overcoats, eyelet-trimmed skirts and peasant shirts are all in touch with current trends. Nonetheless, it was disappointing to see Capasa strike only one note through the entire show.