It has not been an easy year for Donna Karan, who lost her husband to cancer just a few months ago. "My private grief has now become part of a collective one," said the designer, adding that her "collection was inspired by my husband, his art and everything he loved."

The collection is certainly a strong one. Working with featherweight parachute silks, Karan created shimmering belted crinoline coats, cross-pleat skirts and some of the best ponchos we've seen in years (why not wear a platinum stretch silk, double-breasted, double-front poncho trench as an evening gown?). Experimenting with asymmetric seaming to create surprising volume, the designer produced intriguing structures that floated over the body, often stretched over armatures or held together with boning. The architectural motif extended to the long, hand-painted silk organza dresses, some of which were accessorized with Robert Lee Morris' sculptural wire jewelry.