The folk revival has been all too common this season, but Dries Van Noten breathed new life into the overworked concept with his fluid, gentle lines and unerring sense of color.

Tie-dyed robes evoked the serenity of the Himalayas rather than the grunge of Berkeley in the 60s; floor-length camisoles, wrap blanket coats and minutely embroidered peasant shirts hit just the right note. More urban staples like blazers and trousers were unstructured and amply cut; an oversized, olive green parka looked soft and delicate when belted and bloused.

Even die-hard minimalists will be tempted to incorporate one of Van Noten's extra-wide beaded scarves, a low-slung organic bag or a pair of colorful heels into their functional wardrobes.