In sharp contrast to the girly aesthetic that has prevailed during these collections, Karl Lagerfeld presented the Fendi woman as strong, confident and even, at times, aggressive.

Banishing delicate pastel tones, Lagerfeld clad his nomadic warriors in every shade of brick, mauve and brown, better to complement their choppy braided hairdos and tribal tattoo eye makeup. Layers were key. Sheer smocks and subtly printed shirts wafted over fitted trousers cinched above the knee with tie-straps; trailblazer skirts, worked-leather frontier vests, ruffled frocks and minutely embellished sheer tunics were all piled atop each other with abandon.

These dramatic ensembles may not be the most practical everyday staples, but Fendi's accessories are sure to be among the season's best sellers. Lagerfeld's then-and-now studded oyster bags, tooled leather boots and distressed woven sashes all looked like they could have been transported by mule from the outback to the Via Sciesa showroom.